Theres a couple of rules clarification in the SS that will affect a couple of cars.
The 15v max. on the ignition system. And the brake bias must be with the master cylinder and not adjustable by the driver during competition.

It's nice to see we can now use the proper front rotors on rear drum cars.

I'm not sure why the change to full floaters. Takes the class further away from the other tracks.
I also read it as : if you want to have rear disc's on a car never origionaly equiped with it, you must move to a full floater.
Good thing there was a police rpo Nova issued with rear disc in 78.

I still don't understand the full spools and now, why they are highly recommended.

Mandatory drivers meeting??

The spider and side gears are made of 8620 which is flame or surface hardened. when you weld these it takes the toughness out of them. If you weld and quench you get brittle. Now I've welded up quite a few a have not have them come apart, however we have had the splines peel out of the side gears (softened from the welding). The welds will crack from time to time but if you think of it  you have this flying out of balance mess spinning at a good clip so bearing life is diminished. The full spool makes sence if you already have bolt in axles

The spider and side gears are made of 8620 which is flame or surface hardened. when you weld these it takes the toughness out of them. If you weld and quench you get brittle. Now I've welded up quite a few a have not have them come apart, however we have had the splines peel out of the side gears (softened from the welding). The welds will crack from time to time but if you think of it  you have this flying out of balance mess spinning at a good clip so bearing life is diminished. The full spool makes sence if you already have bolt in axles

Mini  spool is about 80 bucks. Takes no time to put in. Can be pulled easily for shows etc to unlock the rear and I've never heard of one breaking.

This would probably take you 10 min Jim, if you were servicing the rear anyway.
(I would advise c-clip elimintors for sure. And the job is quicker)

1) Drain rear end fluid and remove rear cover.
2) Remove cross pin retaining bolt then slide cross pin out.
3) Push axle shafts inboard to allow removal of “C” clips. Move axles clear. (outboard).
4) Remove spider gears, side gears and all shims from carrier (none of these shims are required).
5) Install mini spool side gears in carrier housing.
6) Install axles and “C” clips (extra force on the axle may be required to allow “C” clips to be installed).
7) Align slots in the side gears and slide first cross pin block into place. Rotate mini spool 180 degrees and slide second block
into place. Rotate mini spool assembly 90 degrees to line up cross pin hole in carrier with the holes in the blocks.
8) Install cross pin and cross pin retaining bolt.

I got a 12 bolt from 74 A-body with the 6.14 delaware gear,going real cheap!!!

And the brake bias must be with the master cylinder and not adjustable by the driver during competition.

I think this has been a rule for a number of years. Who uses rear brakes anyway.