Hey thanks to everyone who responded.  I got a charging diagram today and the cluster removal screwed everything up.  The I pin conection was cut out so Im going to piggy back the 12v A pin to it and see what happens.  I tested the battert again yesterday and its toast.  Could having to boost it all time do that?  Again big thanks to everyone.  By the way that Sunfire last weekend kicked butt.

If you didn't short a cell by loading the battery too much and you didn't boil it dry you should be able to bring it back. Top it up with distilled water and use an automatic charger. After it shows charge then load the battery and drain it down a bit. Recharge it with automatic charger on the fast charge setting. It will go to 'maintain' automatically. If the battery gets too hot during charge or the charger pegs at max for more than 10 minutes the battery is FUBAR. If the battery starts smoking and bubbling shortly after you start the charge RUN! LOL

Hey thanks to everyone who responded.  I got a charging diagram today and the cluster removal screwed everything up.  The I pin conection was cut out so Im going to piggy back the 12v A pin to it and see what happens.  I tested the battert again yesterday and its toast.  Could having to boost it all time do that?  Again big thanks to everyone.  By the way that Sunfire last weekend kicked butt.

Hope you got it working proper. Personally I have rebuilt thousands of starters, and alternators and can tell you  the harness would be the closest to the one wire system and you can be on the same brackets. When it comes to boosting there is also a method first cable on last off so you do not kill the computer.
Anybody who gets into racing with a computerized car I would advise them to see Johnny's Auto Electric he is the best around for on car service he does work for the dealers when they have problems. Before you start he could give advice what to disconnect without problems.
London Reman and Baymore often send him work when they know it is required. The back yard guys are out of it more and more and can cause more problems than they started with.

Okay update is I ran a 12v wire to the cluster wire.  The car is working fine now volts are @ 12.4 at rest and 14.3 when running.  Started and stopped a bunch of times and all is good.
Thanks again to everyone.

Ernie, no highjack, it's cool. I'm a licensed mechanic who specalizes in wiring, and engine management.... not a backyarder.