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BBSS vs. BSSB

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Posts: 0
(@jrdriver)
Joined: 1 second ago

theres ore to it than throwing in a big bar and taking out springs rate. shocks are number 1 when it comes to this setup you need something that will tie you down though the corner but let the front come up on the straight to get the rear weight for grip down the straight away.

theres also the fact that this setup could bring you to coil bind and its a whole different setup once  your to coil bind.  running bbss will also change the front geo of the car dynamically. you know all the rf camber you guys run there you dont need it because with the front springs so soft your going to gain a ton of it.

my self i would run coil bind or bump stops if rules alow stops get the front end of the car as soft as i can to get maxum wheel load for the most grip to turn without fighting the car/truck

im not sure how many of you use or have seen a pull down rig in action its quite interesting to see that a 2700 lm under load weighs over 4000lbs though the corners

what ever you try to do dont give up on it right away it will take time to get it right  unless the thing cant drive i would stick one thing out untill you feel like you tryed every thing you can to make it better.

i wouldent be afraid to go 450 fronts big bar  150lr 300rr  get in with someone with a good shock dyno and work on good package.  if you get to coil bind you really dont need a bar  maybe the last 1/4 inch befor bind to plant the lf  into the track

thats just the tip of the iceburg when it comes to thes setups do as much home work as you can


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Posts: 0
(@jrdriver)
Joined: 1 second ago

looking at the rules for the shocks you can get stock type shocks that meet the rules and would work for the bbss setup. no bumb stops in the trucks or supers but you could run coil bind witch is about the same just not as forgiving over the bumps and with the new work going on at the track you could make it work with some testing.

i for one would try it out im not afraid to try new things  ;D


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Posts: 0
(@jrdriver)
Joined: 1 second ago

Shock absorbers (one per wheel), must be sealed steel with stock-type fixed mounts, and no
altering of shock and/or painting allowed. $80.00 maximum per shock. Shocks will have fixed ends
and be non-rebuildable
10. No rod end or ball mounts

it says nothing about not allowed to run an aftermarket shock. its says it has to have stock type mounts so i would get my self a set of bilstines (witch btw are a oem brand) and there also within the price range of the rule.  i dont run there weekly but i would take into consideration that if you can run something do it lol.


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Posts: 0
(@jrdriver)
Joined: 1 second ago

im not saying to do it i said i wouldn't be afraid top try  it could be done with the 80 dollor shocks you have to do some homework is all


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Posts: 0
(@JimmyThunder)
Joined: 1 second ago

Call pro shocks, tell them what you want. they will build for you. welded body(cant take apart), what ever valving you want. No home work to do just pay the bill


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